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Homemade black bean chili is a wonderful thing, but there's no doubting the convenience of canned -- if it's a great brand. (Getty Images)
Homemade black bean chili is a wonderful thing, but there’s no doubting the convenience of canned — if it’s a great brand. (Getty Images)
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As temperatures take a dive and days grow shorter, we start to crave comfort food — and there are fewer things more comforting than a bowl of chili of any variety, including spicy black bean. Made right, a vegetarian chili is hearty, satisfying, low in fat and so nutrient-dense it will fuel any snowy adventure or brisk fall walk.

Unlike popular brands of pinto bean chili, the black bean version is typically vegetarian-friendly, and it often leans gourmet. The big question is, how does the storebought version taste?

Black beans are grown all over the world, but they’re native to Central and South America and popular not only for their intense color, but their meaty, mushroomlike flavor and almost chewy texture. Black beans are common in Caribbean, Spanish and Mexican cuisines, but the sturdy little beans are also a delicious addition to American-style chili, as they hold up well to the long cooking time required to build great flavors.

Good black bean chili boasts a perfectly seasoned vegetable gravy that underscores — but doesn’t overpower — the flavor of the beans. It’s both creamy and chewy, spicy and comforting. The best black bean chili is complex, thick and piquant. The bad stuff ranges from watery and bland to strangely and overwhelmingly sweet.

Here’s the scoop on the best black bean chilis on local market shelves and the ones to avoid. Nutrition details refer to a 1 cup serving.

Amy’s Organic Black Bean Chili

This popular brand found on most store shelves pings the tastebuds with delicious notes every which way. It is straight-up chili deliciousness on a spoon. 240 calories, 3 g fat, 720 mg sodium, 10 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 12 g protein. $4.49 for 14.7 ounces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

Zoup Black Bean Chili

Inside this slender jar is a deep black chili that’s exceptionally tasty and has a decent spice kick. That said, the consistency is more akin to soup than chili, as about half the beans are smashed. 150 calories, 1 g fat, 670 mg sodium, 6 g fiber, 10 g sugar, 8 g protein. $5.65 for 16 ounces at Sprouts. (3 stars)

Pacific Plant-based Harvest Black Bean Chili

Kernels of corn, intact beans and bits of tomato and pepper make this a beautiful and flavorful bite. Add a dash of spice, and it would be near perfect. 210 calories, 2.5 g fat, 650 mg sodium, 9 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 9 g protein. $4.79 for 16.5 ounces at Safeway. (3 stars)

Bush’s Best Spicy Taco Black Beans

These are “taco beans” rather than chili, so it’s no surprise that they lack the layers of flavor of a true chili. But the flavor infused in the beans is still impressive. 260 calories, 1 g fat, 920 mg sodium, 10 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 16 g protein. $1.49 for 15.4 ounces at Grocery Outlet. (2½ stars)

BeanVivo Black Bean Chipotle Chili

Creamy beans, generous spice and tasty gravy made from fresh vegetables make for a tasty melange. Ditch the maple syrup and apple cider vinegar, and this would score much higher. 250 calories, 4.5 g fat, 900 mg sodium, 10 g fiber, 8 g sugar, 14 g protein. $3.99 for 10 ounces at Lucky. (2 stars)

365 Organic Three Bean Chili

This watery, tomato-forward chili is shockingly bland. It’s like eating a bowl of beans in tomato juice.150 calories, 1 g fat, 625 mg sodium, 7 g fiber, 3.5 g sugar, 9 g protein. $2.99 for 17 ounces at Whole Foods. (1 star)

Plantstrong Sweet & Smoky Organic Chili

This pricey box of uber-sweet chili is about as un-delicious as it gets. Politely request a refund. 190 calories, 1 g fat, 340 mg sodium, 6 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 9 g protein. $8.29 for 16.9 ounces at Whole Foods. (½ a star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.